a long weekend in Kirirom..

I had to wait four days for my Visa appointment and so I did. Now I'm back from some more riding and all kind of good experiences! :)
this Visa story troubled my a lot, but finally I have everything ready. I'm in place and tomorrow it will happen and then I continue with new spirit, exploring new roads! :D
I first passed the National Park and decided then to continue to the sea (again ;) and to see sunset and eat some yummy food! ..there was not really a sunset from the place where I stayed in the end (same beach I went when I was here for the first time ;). But there was a wonderful evening ambient and I played long and loudly my didgeridoo! :) before I had a long (and great!) Yoga session with headstand and everything ;) and I did some real kick ass Kung Fu stuff on the beach.. with the right beat, this totally rocks! ;D
next to this, there was though not so much to see. (b.t.w. I always wrote "though" as "tough" ..I think I'll get it right from now on ;)
the tourists are horrible.. playing all with their Iphone and Ipad.. OMG!! that was different 10 years ago. Shianoukville is also called the "wild east" and might really be considered the "Sin City" of Cambodia. So all in all, I had nothing lost there (at least the beaches, as laying around all day long doesn't fulfill me).
there was a great BBQ though and I bought "the Hobbit". fun to read.. too bad, I'm already half through :P
So I left the next morning and made it to the national park. Turns out, I've already been there five years ago! (the name sounded familiar, but when I saw the spot, I realized it). Hmm.. might have seen too many waterfalls already ;) and as the last time, there was nobody there (only at week-ends local tourists come). there's a whole little village down there.. all living off selling soda cans and snacks. Must be pretty chill during the week ;)
I felt deep respect for what I accomplished five years ago.. it's quite a climb up there with a bicycle and the roads are really shitty (unpaved or with many holes in it). So that was quite an achievement ;)
this time though I had had some more HP under my ass and explored many extents of the park (where you still can ride without getting lost in the forest).
When I arrived I met a guy from the States with his Cambodian girlfriend also riding dirtbikes. (he told her how to ride ;) We had a nice conversation about dirtbiking and they shared their lunch with me (chicken and rice :) was really inspiring and was happy to have some good company!!
Then I got myself a room in the only guesthouse there is (and a creepy one as well ;) was a bit costly.. 20USD/day, but managed to get 2 days for 30USD and was happy to have a place to put my things and a nice bed and a shower (cold). Generater runs from 6PM to 10PM and then there is only stars in the sky and the moon ;)
So after I deposited my big bag, I explored the surroundings of the place.. there's a lake and some really nice dirtroads to take (lots of them actually ;)
the guy from the guesthouse also gave me a map to use that made all the difference for riding around (without map, I could not have done anything of this). But some Falang GPS tracked the arae (probably on a dirtbike ;) and found all the ways for hiking, mountainbike and dirtbiking.
The next day I wanted to make a trip on a not too far away mountain top with a nearby viewpoint. Was totally ready to take off and then some other dirtbikers arrived (mostly locals and one foreigner). We quickly made friends (playing some didge helped as well ;) and they took me for a little trip to some steep cliff with stunning view! and we had some breakfast there.. rice and some veggies with beef. Simple but tasty! :)
then we climbed down to some secret hideout.. man, that was really awesome I met these people!! we had a local guide (all younger than me) on a 100ccm with really bad tires and it was still hard to keep up with him.. what a reckless driver ;) the only other one without protection gear.. I wished I would have had some, but I didn't fall. but it was quite at a good speed through the forest and I had to keep track of the bike ahead to see how it behaves to adapt my speed (so no time for sightseeing ;) I also realized that I'm not a dirtbiker. I'm still a traveler on a bike. But I could become one, if I would have some more equipment and some people introducing me into it (I can drive pretty good.. just need some more knowledge and training with gear on). Apparently you can take a lot if you have a full body armor. Well.. don't want to try it, but it makes sense only to ride with these things.
So to improve my biking I would need: Complete body armor, one or more riding buddies, GPS if affordable and 100% Offroad tires in good condition. Then I think I would take many steep slope ;)
The whole thing took until noon and then I continued my quest for the summit. Reached it easily.. we're talking about distances of 10-15km out and same way back. There is a lot of fun stuff to ride and you can ride the hell out of your bike in this national park (yes, it's Cambodia ;)
I got some more experience going offroad and orientating myself along the way (well.. didn't get lost at last ;)
Then I chilled reading after a very full and special day! ..they made some good food at the guesthouse and brought it to my room. So I had twice dinner in bed ;) love to have a good treat!!
this morning I tried to reach the dam and a viewpoint, but didn't manage either of them. First was probably not too much further, but the way became very steep and slippery with deep trenches (they are the worst.. once your bike is stuck in one of them, you probably can't get it out again without help). And my chain tension was too loose (should have checked before) and I didn't want to push it any further. There was a guy on a small bike coming when I was on my way back and I wonder if he passed it (probably) but still had enough for the moment (I would have to go back then on my own). So I went back to the ruined fisher village and and opened the map for something else. The almost only thing I haven't been on the map was a lookout point that I couldn't find either. but had some more fun kilometers riding ;) at some time I crossed a small river.. it looked pretty deep and indeed it was very deep!! if it would have been broader than one meter, I would have drowned that bike! :/ the only reason why no water got into the engine was because it was just diving shortly (and getting out steaming ;) so the next time if it looks fairly deep, I'll find another way.
I hit a lot of dirt on that mountain and was good fun!! :) still from now on I'll have easier roads ahead and don't want to push it too much. it was fun to ride with the other guys, but with thin pants and a T-shirt, this is not the best idea to do very often. there should be a movie of it and I'm looking forward to see it! :D
then I drove easily back to PP and organized all my stuff here.. this was the last task and now I'm chilling out a bit, probably reading some more ;)

Halftime.. recovery with struggles..

from two days ago..

The circle closes

Two more days and I’m back in Phnom Penh. But just for (hopefully) one day to make my Visa and also get the biked serviced at the shop, so it will be same reliable on the second part of the journey.
So I took the way down to Preah Kanh (there are several of them, so it’s confusing ;) I found the turn-off, a very big green sign above the road. Then I thought this is gonna be easy (dirt road, but really big). Turns out that this goes some stone processing plant and my way (people around didn’t know and were pointing me 180° other direction :P  ..I already stopped making efforts to ask for the way (except there’s absolutely no one around for the next 10km). Most of the people don’t get my Khmer and it’s a pain in the ass trying to speak their language. So I mostly don’t bother long.. go find someone more helpful ;)
after cruising  around for a while I found it then and it was still a pretty neat way (neat means, not too easy to drive ;) then it started to become a rarely travelled track and suddenly I was happy to have extra gas and water with me. This was so far the biggest leap of faith that I took so far. I found a village at the beginning and they were telling me where to go (I should have asked for clearer instructions, but I left quite quickly). The road became really nasty (impassable for a car) and somewhere a hardened track filled with leaves throw me out of balance and I got another scratch on my leg. But I’m taking good care of them.. put like four different creams on different body parts ;)
it was a really bad-ass ride this day and when I finally after over an hour of “blind” driving found the origin of the tracks I was following, it were two ox carts ;) man, was I happy to see someone around!! I figured, that I’m pretty right.. maybe there would have been another better way around but mostly it was the way I took. Just a few more kilometres and I got there! The last part was easy, because there were people around to ask. On the way there I crossed five dry riverbeds and needed quite some driving skill to handle the bike. Not one kg more!! :P at a certain point far, far in it stopped working for a moment. The engine just went off after exiting a riverbed and was not to start again. Hmm.. had to take a deep breath, taking my helmet off, checking all the connection and then trying to start it a bit more (once battery is dead the problem becomes bigger). Luckily it started again after a while.. hmm. Was driving REALLY careful after that (1^st gear) for a while ;)
the biggest challenge is the to handle the growing amount of stress. Where am I? Will the bike do? (no flat tyres, because couldn’t fix that, because no tools). Will I find the way back if it has to be? (one hour riding means over 6 hours walking back!!). Additionally it’s very hot and you dehydrate quickly (camelback would be awesome!). Then you start losing concentration and eventually fall. So it’s good to stop, to calm down, to relax and to think. In the end it just worked out perfectly! :) I arrived at the temple and there were several fractions of locals having a picnic out there and inviting me beer and tasty food! :) cheered by the booze, I walked around in the ruins (they are nice, but I expected something different, for the Lonely Planet sections talks about another site with the same name :P but was still nice! ..the best of it was sleeping out there during the night. I managed with the help of some locals to get my bike in and hid it very well in the jungle (got smarter ;) then after sunset I went pretty quickly to bed for many, many mosquitoes were waking up :P my hammock kicks ass!! If you don’t have a perfect hammock-mosquito-net-solution, don’t sleep outside. There were dozens buzzing at my head and I assume even more of them further down. But all of them outside, so I didn’t get stung during the night (otherwise you don’t close an eye ;). What was freakier than the mosquitoes was the constant cracking of the forest. As there would be taken random footsteps around me (squirrels?). That was pretty scary ;) but I survived also this night. In the morning I woke up with the sunshine and was walking around a bit more in the ruins. After breakfast (noodle soup) I had again to search the way west to the next temple I wanted to see. I run into the temple guard again and he asked me, if I took my bike inside.. phew.. that was a close one ;) The whole morning I drove west, orientating with the sun. It gets also a bit lonely along the way, but compared to yesterday, this trip was a piece of cake ;) it’s too bad I don’t have any movies of riding these stretches, but it would be impossible to film while riding and I unfortunately don’t have a GoPro cam (and would ask myself if it’s worth to take many movies.. who’s gonna watch them? Me?
When I got to that temple complex, I felt how close I already got to Angkor Wat. This place must seen hundreds of tourists every day, being driven there in A/C-cars or even flying in with helicopter (must be nice to see it from above, but these people have another budget :P so after having most of the places most of the time for myself, this was a bit too much for me. Still paid the 5USD entry and walked around a bit. It would be perfect for LifeRolePlay or some acid ;) but in either way there would be too many other people around. If people meet there, they try to ignore each other and pretending they’re there just alone :P I can understand.. after overrun Angkor Wat one really looks for something more peaceful.
I had really tasty food (paid also 5USD, what is pretty much here) and there were other dirt bikes in front of the restaurant. Turns out it’s the guy I contacted few weeks ago (he recognized me). His offer was too expensive, so I just went directly to PP to get a bike and do everything on my own. He was guiding a nice couple from Singapur.. they had some experience already and came riding here (a really good choice!). She tough needed a smaller bike, because she’s not so tall. I really think my Ex could not have done this.. I’m be impressed if a guy can keep up with me (I know some who easily can.. but there are not too many of them ;) but if a girl can do such riding (without breaking anything), then she’s pretty capable!
after lunch I made it to Kbal Spean.. a carved riverbed a little bit uphill with a small waterfall to take a shower (what I did earlier ;) the light was already fleeting, but still could see what was to be seen. Took some pictures, played some didgeridoo (had a really wicked session! ;D and walked down just in time. Here I’m staying with the guard and his family. Nice he let me go up late and offers me a place to put my hammock. Even was invited for dinner with them. Rice and some veggie-meat dish, both cooked on the fire. Very simple lifestyle out here..
Tomorrow I will see another nearby temple and then go direction Phnom Penh. I want to arrive the 27^th during the day. So the 28^th I can take off again (don’t feel like spending two nights in PP). On the way from Siam Reap to PP is another site where I’ll stop (once you started, you want to see them all ;) hehe ;) but actually, I’m also pretty done for the moment with stones, bricks and Nagas (really cool snake creatures with several heads). After this I’m ready for the north east of Cambodia. So far this has been a really super epic trip!!! :D I think with good equipment, GPS and last generation bike, I could do even more! ;D
as downside I lost quite some things.. my headphones broke in the jungle (ripped apart by some bamboo plants), then I lost my slippers because the bag opened because the road was so bumpy :( have both replaced already.. the only thing that hurts, is the ending-part of my didgeridoo. But as I’ll be back in Nepal in June, I’ll make it whole again (it’s gonna be like Elendil from LotR . “It will be forged together again!” ;D

..and from where I'm now: 

I should quickly catch up with the things, but want to keep it short, because I had a tough day.
There was a great sunset and I got nice pictures (good light) of a beautiful carved temple. even better than Prey Veng, but once again.. Prey Veng is not overrun. Well.. I was No.3 at the site and didn't pay entry, because the ticket box was still closed. Inside just a few policemen who let you step over to the fenced off area to take more detailed pictures.. for a little fee of course. I didn't feel like spending some money and enjoyed from the other side ;)
then I went off to Mount "Bok", a 212m tall hill with some ruins on it. Took me forever to find it, because I should have turned off long ago, but didn't see that bump in the haze ;) walked bravely up the stairs, only stopping a few times to catch air and enjoy the view. On the Top there were indeed some ruins and I enjoyed view and rocks, before I walked down the steep trails (more slipped down ;) not recommendable with flip-flops :P I did it anyway, soaked in sweat but happy! :) 

from there the way lead me towards Phnom Penh. I took some off the nasty National Road 6 (between Siam Reap and PP) and stopped for the night at a site called "Sambor Srei Kuk". Found some nice young guides there and could stay without a problem with them in my hammock over night (3rd night in a row outside ;). the super highlight about these ruins were that there is a temple with two lions guarding it, having a wonderful resonance inside for singing, chanting and playing didgeridoo. And this is, what I was doing mostly during my stay :) haha.. what awesome sessions I had!!! :D in addition to this, it was full-moon and it was clearly shining down into the forest with few trees, loosing their last leaves.. oh man.. perfect ambiance!!!
had some beers, eat some food with the guys (tasty pork for dinner) and went playing again.
I started also taking antibiotics, because one scratch I got is not healing right (let's say, I don't like how it looks). So I don't take the risk and take antibiotics (and less alcohol ;) ..don't do this easily and don't like too much doing it, but having some hard experiences reacting too late and I don't want to take chances here in Cambodia.

anyway.. this morning a terrible, dangerous and exhausting ride along the NR6 to PP. Phew.. I made it! the last 50km was roadwork and very, very dusty!! I arrived pretty exhausted and figured out that my Visa stuff is not happening as I planned to do it (now I know better ;) but nevertheless, I'm finding solutions and something to do here in Cambodia. Actually want a relaxed place and do nothing until I go for the Visa Interview to the embassy.. I better go and check the map ;)

I also have to get a lot of cash as deposit for the bike (don't loose it, because it's now equivalent two grand :P (certainly not that much worth to me..) but anyway.. finally it turned out all not too bad. let's see what comes from here on and then I will open a new chapter: India on a bike (that will actually be a 250ccm road bike, because bigger is hard to find and Enfield doesn't seem suitable for the type of trip I want to do. Will take some time to set it up nicely in Delhi and then let's head out! :) ..this will be really challenging (also being alone in India :P but I'm sure I will manage and it will be a great trip!

OK:. that does it.. there's still some pictures to upload and wanted to play some didge as well.. :)

..call me "Indiana Croft" ;)

so far so good!
I'm here at a very nice hotel (for 7USD) with a very high roof top overlooking the whole area :)
as planned, I made it for sunrise to the ruins again, made some nice pictures, did some kung-fu and drove down to pack my stuff. Was a nice day riding to the turn off, where it goes straight through the jungle towards Kor Keh (some ruins, that I've heard about 5 years ago and I wanted to see them! :) there's a nice paved road leading there, but I took the back entrance and saved 10 bucks ;) the remaining temples are truly worth going there and spending a night! I just met two other tourists with a guide (taking pictures through the car window :P and otherwise, I had the place for myself! :)
when I camped overnight, I should not have chosen the main temple (or maybe it was good). Well.. after climbing some forbidden platform and leaving candles there, the tourist police picked me up, telling me I have to move to the shops at the entrance (150m). That was okay.. paid the usual 5USD donation and had a good sleep and no trouble. Then the next morning they told me about other ruins and even further away ruins and I decided to take this way. ..I might have to add, that when I arrived out of nowhere to the first ruins, I was incredibly happy, because the way was quite challenging. Your out in nowhere on a 4WD dirt track that you try not to lose. I had not enough water with me for any incidence (I do better now!) and I didn't know about my gas supplies. and it always sucks if you have to turn around 1 hour to take the long way :P
but I made it!! :D that boosted my skills to the next level of off road dirt biking in Cambodia.
So I took another way out to some more (and very impressive) ruins that I couldn't find in the beginning. So I took some local on the back and together we made it! unnecessary to mention that there are NO tourists whatsoever! :D I found beautiful carvings in stone.. probably the most beautiful I've ever seen.
after this, there would have been another beautiful site, but nobody could tell me how far or where to go. Well.. I tried.. but turned around after a while, because I didn't found the way and didn't see anybody to ask. When I filled up again in the next town, I just used 3.5lt. I could have gone another distance/time at the point where I decided to turn around, as the whole day!! :P so I could have been more brave. but then I made it here to this real neat hotel, having a hot shower and recovering from the jungle (preparing for more of it! ;) and I couldn't have done if it would have taken me over one hour to get to the spot. (or course, camping out is always an option, but I didn't feel like that. better to do my online stuff here having wi-fi again than being with some locals that don't speak a word of English (had the experience and it's worth it, but for now I'm OK with wi-fi ;)
so it could have taken another 2 hours to get to that other ruins and from there I would have wanted to cross over to the other side (other road) but my map sucks and I don't have the correct name or routes. e.g. the one I did today does not even exist :P so before getting lost too deep in the jungle and hills, I decided to turn around. I might leave it open for the next time ;) ..they are not on the map and not in the lonely planet.. their existence is barely know to the "Falang" ;D (Falang = every not Asian in Asia ;)
so today I had some very exciting ride (beats all the rest so far). I got a good feeling for the bike and had one or two close calls, but managed to stay up.. all the rest where I just intervened a little, I consider drive saving. Or in other words, I got some nice skills in off road biking and this acquired in Cambodia.. how fucking cool is this!!! :D
oh.. to mention.. there are pictures and movie of it: I saw a black-green snake eating a blue-purple lizard. That was some NatGeo live and an incredible experience!!
I got a new Yoga-mat.. I accidentally took a blanket from the police guys at the first sleep over.. so that will do for a while! :)
happy to have done all the digital stuff, I can go to sleep now ;)

taking this to a whole new leve!! :D

I did it!!! :D I just crossed the Cardamom Mountains and now trying to get drunk in Promuoy ;) ..after I got a extra 5 litres of gas, lots of water and emergency food, I still decided to take a guide (offer was 80USD to Promuoy). Couldn’t print out any maps in town (no working printers) and they wouldn’t have served anyway. I was prepared to do it on my own (even getting wrecked along the way) and still bailed out and opted for the safe way. But then just shortly after, Paddy, the guy from my guesthouse, told me a friend of his does the way tomorrow and I could go with them. For like 10 USD (happily gave 20 :). They were two people on one small bike and a box of seafood with them (having some crab tonight ;) and it gave me a lot of confidence to be able to do it (even if heavily loaded). ..to mention: I found another mat yesterday, did some Yoga with it and start to like it (totally different style, but does the job of providing some softer ground), and I lost it already today on the ride here :P luckily it was only 4USD and I’ll get a new one. Can’t be without mat for exercises! ;)
the day was spectacular! We missed a turnoff, but my friend figured it out quickly talking a bit Khmer. Good to have some local people with you! :D it’s not that hard to do, because there is some traffic along the way and people living. You can buy bottled water and snacks (small selection tough) and gas everywhere along the way. There are not so many ways to get lost and I’m happy I didn’t hire a special guide for it but could drive along with the other two guys :) had some good food at a restaurant in Ou Som and visited a Pineapple field to see how the grow and we went to some big plains (that become swamp in the wet season). Was a really cool ride!! As assumed probably the best of this trip! ..so once you know the way, it’s easy. Leave Koh Kong on some big dirt road with milestones. Around km 50 turn left. Another hour ride to 3 dams and after passing the second dam it’s 14km to Ou Som and from there about 25km (1 hour) to Promuoy. If I’d have known that it’s  so easy, I could have done it alone. But like this I had some nice extras to the trip and a perfect time management (we spent the whole day in the mountains and arrived just before the rain started. Now it’s dry again and hopefully stays like that, so I can take some more dirt tracks direction north. I wish I’d have a compass!! My friend made some good movies from the trip and from me riding.. this will give a nice movie to upload: “Cambodian Dirtbike Memories”.
tonight I’ll also have a good sleep. I want to journey as quickly as I can to the ruins in the north. There I want to stay out for a night in the jungle (need to buy hammock and mosquito net). Will for sure also be a cool experience!! ;)

So I got the hammock with mosquito net and tomorrow night, I’ll sleep out at the Koh Ker ruins :D (it’s recommended to do so in the Lonely Planet. Didn’t have one for ages, but find it pretty useful here and worth the 3USD ;) there are maps of the ruins and descriptions. So there are three sites I want to visit and figured out I have plenty of time. Booked my flight on the 9^th and have to get the Visa done before. So I will bring my passport to the embassy once I’m back in Phnom Penh and get the oil changed and then off for another week or more to the North East.
there are some things to say about Cambodia. People are very friendly, but still scarred from their history. After the genocide and very harsh periods, they are now looking for who they are. I also saw a group of MAG (Mine Advisory Group) that were clearing minefields along the boarder to Thailand. There are still many, many more unexploded mines left and it will take forever to make these lands safe again. So never leave the path, not even to take a shit :P
There is no SevenEleven in Cambodia (some imported products, lingering on shelves in food stores tough ;) but along the way you’ll see hundreds of orange cooling boxes, that contain a nice selection of random more or less cooled drinks. So it’s always nice to stop at one of these treasure chests for refreshment! :)
People wear funny dresses that look like pyjamas. Same cut and both parts made out of the same colourful fabric with something printed on it. doesn’t look that nice, but must be comfortable!! ;)
here it’s extremely hot.. and I mean EXTREMELY! But on the bike it’s OK.. but stop for 30 seconds and you start dripping ;)
When I started in Promuoy, I had a little note with some Khmer words on it that brought my safely to Pailin. So I left out all the paved national roads and just found my way through the countryside where it’s most beautiful! :) yes, had really a great day of riding! Got a nasty scratch on my thigh, because the bike fell over when I tried to pass a mud hole and a improvised screw of the handlebar got me. Well.. it doesn’t hurt a lot and will heal quickly. Nothing bad happened.. good news is that my boots finally fit comfortably (still tight). I’m optimizing my way of packing and so far my backpack sits tight. So yeah.. taking all these back roads demanded some driving skill. Mud, sand, river crossings, dusty roads with holes in it and so on. But I enjoy a lot!! :D having enough time to go slowly if it has to be. At the moment I find myself having a good speed tough ;) I ride until my ass hurts and then a little more (because mostly I’m not there where I plan to stop ;) It’s just such a great way to discover Cambodia when you have a bike!! :) when I met people (locals) on these bad roads, they are all on a smaller, much shittier bike with sometimes heavier loads or up to four people (e.g. young family). So I figured, I can do it too and I also see the limits of the bike (and when it’s loaded). So it’s not some super crazy offroad stuff I’m doing.. normal people travel these roads, so it’s not like 5km would take you an hour to make (if you’re that much offroad, then without luggage and you won’t drive like this one day long.. simply too tiring).
yesterday I slept at a Karaoke bar (they’re called KTV.. whatever it means). So men go there to get drunk and sing Karaoke and have girls dancing and singing with them. Really odd. So the selection yesterday was not so spectacular and apparently there is no sex involved. Just getting drunk and silly Karaoke ;D must cost some money and I saw one guy walking out, trying to start his bike, but couldn’t do it because so shitfaced. And it got me too, because I skipped dinner and was just drinking beer, until I had to unload some the same way it came in.. well, at least no hangover today. On the way here I stopped at some nice ruins along the way. I wouldn’t come from Siam Reap for it (as you could do, but apparently nobody does ;) but having this just along the way and accessible for my bike was just great! :)
tomorrow I pass Pol Pots cremation place and the grave of some cruel dude during the regime. But I don’t know yet if I will bail out to pay it a visit. Maybe I just head on to Kor Ker (was very long hard to get too). Now there is a toll road and it should take me very long to get there :P well.. at least when the pavement is good, you get some more time to watch the things around you. And well.. let’s see if there are other tourists. I doubt somebody will camp out with me ;)
having helmet time is a good thing. I had some nice thoughts today about past, present and future and also about riding a motorbike. I enjoy spending time on the way. Nothing to do, just drive (and BE). Don’t meet a lot of people to talk to and during the day I’m just listening to my favourite type of music and letting life inspiring me. I already spent a lot of time on the road and you probably must be the type to like it. But to me it’s moving not only through time, but also through space. The way guides me and brings me to the places where I want to go. This 250ccm is like little dragon to me and I’m it’s rider, taking it from the sea to the highest mountains and down into the deepest jungle. Kinda bad-ass, isn’t it? ;D
having a helmet with a visor is a must (because of all the dust when cars pass) and I’m happy to have my sunglasses in addition to it, otherwise my eyes are burning in the evening. I should also get some mouth cover, but lost my nice napkin in Thailand already.
I got the bike ready for tomorrow (chain tightened and oiled, tank filled). Need batteries, candles and some supplies before getting to the ruins. I’m looking forward to explore them at night and play didgeridoo there! :D

So instead of Koh Ker, I checked first Prasat Preah Viehr out, a temple complex on a bigger hill with steep cliffs. Stunning views, even  if a bit foggy today. Unfortunately you can’t camp out on top of the hill. I assume it’s mainly due to the conflict between Thailand and Cambodia about the temple. There were lots of Thai tourists once on that mountain (a big road for AC cars in the Thai side), but today were just 21 other ones than me (so it was nice and quiet!! ;) but there are 23 tourist police guys and about 20 soldiers hiding in bunkers (that you’re not supposed to picture). So I just got in between two conflicts, where tourists are allowed ;) even if I can’t sleep there, I’ll see hopefully the sunrise on top of the hill tomorrow. I’m having my hammock put at the police station down in the valley and will drive up tomorrow early morning. These guys at least can speak English and they’re very friendly :) still have to pay five bucks “donation”, so it’s not that I would save money tonight ;)
surprisingly there are all roads paved leading me to this place. Made it easier to travel and had some more time to see the nature. Most of it is tough not as stunning as in the Cardamoms. Still, getting closer to the boarder, there’s another small mountain range and it’s nice to have something to capture your view :) then I think, I should not be expecting, but just taking the road and the landscape for what it is. Many people are living their daily life out here (what is pretty simple, looking at the evolutionary stand of most of the individuals here). But it’s interesting and inspiring to see this and I enjoyed as well getting here (was really simple compared to what I went through ;)
On the top of the temple I had some nice didgeridoo sessions (it’s pretty cool to play at ancient ruins!! ;D especially when you can look down over the lands. I even made a little movie with my sticks.. the background could be from Mortal Kombat ;) hehehe ;) most of the locals working on the top came to see the show (and enjoyed it! :) but then some grumpy lady was scaring me away. I didn’t understand what she and the officer said, but they meant to stop me. Well.. at least got a shot ;) had lots of fun there! After I got out of Vietnam five years ago, I remember some moments in Cambodia, where I was freely (in public) expressing myself with toys and dance and improved my performance. This was surely a milestone for me and it’s nice to come back and do the same again. It was here, where I got boosted to perform more freely without thinking what other people could think of it.

on the road again..

so this is now the forth day of my journey. It was nice riding down to Kampot (found the same guesthouse again ;) and I enjoy the hot weather (the wind on the bike makes it just cool enough ;). It's amazing to experience Cambodia this way!! the second day I went for some caves (playing didgeridoo ;) and tried to drive around a small lake, but got lost pretty quickly :P yeah.. that was shitty. ended up driving along small trails between rice paddies and asking the few people there where the way to Kep is, what they wouldn't understand. in the end there was plenty of gas and enough water but still, I already experienced some stress being lost.. what brings me to the actual situation. I want to cross the Cardamom mountains and might need a guide or not. it's a bit pricy, but if there's a chance to get lost, I rather try to make a fair deal and get a babysitter. Tomorrow any way, I'll get a better picture of the situation. I still can pay or turn around the long and boring way or try to cross the mountains on the new logging road. I'll have to research more and print out google maps. but still then, my odometer's not working, what makes mapping of the trip and estimating distances impossible!!! :P so yeah.. eventually pay the price. today was pretty though and I'm looking forward to get a good and long rest! ..when I came back from the island (getting to that), I forgot my (beloved!!) yoga-mat and it would have taken hours and 8USD to get it back. so I decided to move on, but was questioning this for a while. I'll find another one.. but it's a real personal loss! then I got my right shoe back, after it was disassembled completely to make it bigger. didn't really work, but took it the way it was.. bought these for 15USD and left one is just fitting but right one too small. I tried to stretch and hammer it, but not enough. so he took it apart and tried to make it bigger. so far the investment is 5USD and it will do probably for a little while. the left boot has a thick leather patch for gear lever and works just fine! :) I was back to Bokor Hill Station, but they're building a fancy resort there and the spooky flair is gone. was awesome to spend a night there five years ago!! good old times! :) a nice ride up and down, for completely new road.. just foggy on the top for clouds passing by all the time. yeah.. did quite some things lately ;) was also a night on an island, after tripping around it during the day ;) OMG.. that was AWESOME!! a storm came up when I found perfect shelter to watch it's forces sweeping over me and enjoying a good wine that I brought along! ;D yes.. good times!! even if getting here, after hitting rain and being soaked (all electronic devices life!! :D and freezing on the bike, I just found out that the contact here is a guide and asks for a lot of money (instead of some cool dude that would help me out not making money with it..) good night and cu tomorrow! :)

1..2..3..set up!

so yes.. I already have some new stuff to write :) the next time I'd be smarter, go just to the boarder of Cambodia, organize the trip to Phnom Penh myself (more comfortable as this one). and change money just here in town or keep dollars for 4000 Real/dollar. but the guys at the border are extremely pushing that you should change money.. so I guess I lost something on my exchange rate for doing to too early (how could one know :P ) then some extra money for bus and some more extra money for visa stuff. well.. it's at least very easy this way. just standing quite a while in the line until your bio data got scanned and there you go.. 30 days of Visa. that's unfortunately costly to extend. 42USD for 30 days and I just would need like 3 days. So I might just having a bike for around 26 days or pay a little bit for overstay. Then the India visa is possible to do, but same pain in the ass as back home. so I'll have to plan this carefully and get a list of all the documents and things I need. Good news is that every ATM gives you dollar (that are accepted at a good exchange course.. easy one.. 1:4000 ;D then today I got a city map, suitable bike map and even a bike.. good model and condition for 13USD/day. new tires! :D will do perfectly.. it's again a Honda XR 250 (has also good reputation). when I saw the choice and the amount of shops renting bikes, I ran into a guy from Australia that lived here a while ago and he told me about riding bike in Cambodia and what's his preferred bike. the fact that mine has disc brakes and the other one more crappy ones was enough to opt for the XR! tomorrow I pick it up, buy some leather shoes that I spotted today .. a bit small, but cheap and I think will work :) got some great help today from a guy and could already do a lot of things! Cambodia is fun!!! :D so for the riding.. there will be gas everywhere and I will figure out what is doable and what should not be done. so no worries.. won't take any risks and for the time I'm here, there's pretty much to do and explore and it doesn't have to be the super deep into the jungle tour, because this should be done with a guide (if I run out of ideas, I might thing about it). but yes.. just being aware and not doing any crazy, stupid things ;) ..I'll be fine! :D

Lost World, I'm coming! :)

Hello World! :) So here I go.. just finished my last thai massage class yesterday at 5pm and 24 hours later I’m already in Cambodia, heading to Phnom Penn (where I will arrive at midnight :P ..yes, it’s a quite long trip and I’m happy I just have to do it once. Even paying the whole trip and Visa fees, I’m still kind of in my budget of 80USD/day. Yes, that’s right.. I got shit lot of money to spend and will also do so, realizing all my travelling dreams. first I just got a ticket to Siam Riep, but changed it to get to the capital directly, so I can start finding myself a decent bike, map, gear and all the info I need to do this epic trip!! :D the last two weeks were really super fulfilling with all the beautiful people I met and all the great things I could learn. In the end I did a two day course for elbow and knee power and as I was the only one doing it, I got two teachers for myself and got a lot of personal coaching! Now I want to practice along the way and hope to find soon people to try out my new skills. Especially travelling I now have lots of time to give massages, do yoga and practice my stick fighting. I’m meeting much more people without being with Nadia, so it’s not all so bad in the end. (still tough have to say that travelling with a girl I love is unbeatable). Anyway.. as my massage teacher pointed it out: if somebody stabs you with a knife, why would you take the same knife and stab you over and over again. It’s a time of letting go and letting inner peace reign again! It was really nice being in Thailand, especially exploring the north on two wheels and doing the massage course! Cambodia is pretty different.. not so convenient as Thailand, but therefore more adventurous. Looking forward to meet local people and learning some Khmer (local language). Khmer is completely different from Thai and I have to start all over again with learning words. But will figure it out! As I do the rest of this trip.. I’m sitting in this local bus for many more hours and I have no idea what’s about to come.. in fact, I don’t really have a plan, more like a vague idea of what I will do the next month. But after being for 2 ½ month in Thailand, it’s about time for a change. Well.. Nadia is still on the same island and hanging around. What a pity!! There would be so many more things to do than just making holidays on an island. But everybody chooses for himself, so as it seems, she’s happy staying more time in the same spot. not me! :D ..from here I’ll figure out how to make my India visa ant getting a flight to Delhi, where hopefully finally my friend Ben will have a bike waiting for me!! Today I spoke to quite a few people and had some very interesting conversations! ..as I said, you don’t meet a lot of people if you’re travelling with your girlfriend. the last days I was writing something that I could call my “unification theory”. It’s basically a reflection of my life and it puts all the single elements (didgeridoo, contact juggling, stick fighting) together. I call it “the way of the dragon”. Let’s see how far I get with it and if it will be worthwhile to read. At least for me it’s nice to have a complete picture of it. One thing that I’m also getting more into is didgeridoo sound healing. For I play over 12 years, I got pretty good at it and like to use its power also to heal other people (the player undoubted gets many benefits of it!).